Help Centre

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  1. What type of flue do you recommend? 16/10/2018

    We recommend a 150mm flue kit for your Pyroclassic Fire.

    As we are a carboNZero certified organisation, we are not keen to support the unnecessary freight of bulky flue components great distances when there are comparable products available from reputable manufacturers in your locality. Please speak to your local Pyroclassic agent about the Flue Kit options available to you in your area.

  2. Can I make modifications to my authorised woodburner? 16/10/2018

    Authorised woodburners have been designed and tested to ensure that they meet emissions and efficiency limits set out in the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality. Modifications may result in more emissions being discharged or a decrease in efficiency, which will invalidate the authorisation.

    Modifying your woodburner without the advice of the manufacturer may also create a fire hazard or other safety risks.

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

     

     

  3. How do I use my moisture meter? 16/10/2018

    The moisture meter is intended to be used regularly throughout the drying process, from when you first get your wood fuel delivered right through to just before burning it. It will allow you to know exactly what the moisture content of the wood fuel you are using is and it will ensure that if used correctly your new fire will be able to perform well. Poor quality wood fuel is the number one cause of issues with all wood fires and flue systems.

  4. Refuelling onto a low firebed 16/10/2018

    The wood fuel inside a Pyroclassic® IV fire burns best on a thin bed of ash and hot coals. However, if there is insufficient burning material in the fire bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission can occur. Refueling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash so that the new fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period, add suitable kindling if necessary. If a new fuel load is left without suitable ignition then a buildup of unburnt volatile gases can occur, this can cause the unit to be put under stress when these gases eventually do combust causing a possible internal explosion. Always ensure adequate combustion and ignition of fuel and use the Turboslide as instructed.

     

  5. How do I refuel the fire? 16/10/2018

    Use the rake to evenly distribute the hot ember and ash along the base of the fire box, ensuring there is sufficient hot ember at the front to provide adequate ignition to the fresh fuel load. Load the fresh fuel so the logs are loaded lengthways and one end of each log is in contact with the back wall of the firebox. If you keep your fire burning under the metal air tubes which run along the top of the cylinder, this will ensure the maximum amount of heat is captured within the ceramic cylinder. As hot gases have the most distance to travel before entering the flue, this allows the whole fire to retain as much heat as possible. When raking, avoid plugging the Turboslide inlet with char or ash (this is the hole covered externally by the Turboslide below the door). Using other tools may cause damage to the ceramic cylinder, always take care not to impact the ceramic surface.

     

     

  6. We have just had a minor gas explosion/back puffing in our Pyroclassic. Why has this happened? 16/10/2018

    This could be caused for the following reasons:

    1. Rake not used to bring hot char forward causing wood to burn at the wrong end. Use the rake as per Operating Instructions.
    2. The Turboslide was not opened after re-loading large, cold logs.
    3. The burning of an explosive substance - battery, aerosol container, etc. DO NOT DO THIS!
    4. There was an insufficient bed of coals to ensure adequate ignition of a fresh fuel load.
    5. Too high moisture content of wood fuel. Split one of your logs in half and use your moisture meter to test the wood. 

    As a point of caution you should never insert a fresh log which is too large or placed in the fire too late to ensure a flaming combustion, doing this will cook the wood fuel on the remaining embers releasing unburnt volatile gases into the combustion chamber which will eventually reach a point of ignition, this can result in a sizable explosion inside the fire chamber and may cause damage to the unit. 

     

     

  7. What is a load limiter? 15/10/2018

    Along the top of the fire chamber is a load limiter, which is designed to restrict the operator from overloading it. This will burn off in approximately 3-7 years depending on frequency of use. The load limiter does not need replacing but the airtubes will. 

     

    Load Limiter airtubes

  8. What dimension is the cylinder? 15/10/2018

    The cylinder of the Pyroclassic IV is 555 mm long, 367 mm outside diameter and 307 mm inside diameter

    The cylinder of the Pyroclassic Mini is 368 mm long, 367 mm outside diameter and 307 mm inside diameter

    The cylinder is 30 mm thick

     

     

  9. Why is the Pyroclassic sometimes shown as having a 4kW heat output and sometimes 15kW? 15/10/2018

    The 4kW rating for the Pyroclassic IV comes from the efficiency and emissions testing procedure. This heat output test is a byproduct of other tests and it is acknowledged throughout the industry that this method of testing disadvantages fires with a higher thermal mass.

    In light of this the New Zealand Home Heating Association (NZHHA) established a standalone testing procedure specifically designed to measure the actual kW output of a fire in the laboratory environment. The Pyroclassic IV is only one of a few fires to have been tested with this procedure and the results have confirmed the Pyroclassic IV is capable of providing a genuine 15kW of heat for your home.

    A more accurate way of measuring how well a wood burner will heat you home in the real world is to look at the space heating rating which is usually shown in m2. The higher the area shown the better the fire will be to heat the whole home. The Pyroclassic IV is rated up to 250m2, which is one of the highest ratings of any domestic wood fire.

     

     

  10. My fire is slow to start up. What can I do? 15/10/2018

    • Open the Turboslide by moving it to the far left or right position.
    • Check the start-up hole is free of ash and char on the inside, push back any build-up with the rake. The start-up air supply hole allows air to enter the fire chamber like a pair of old fashioned bellows, if the hole is clogged with ash and char it will not work.
    • Check for air leakage around the cook top, around the flue collar and in the flue pipe joints. Air bypassing the fire chamber reduces draft. Repair any air leaks.
    • Slow start up can occur if you are fueling the fire with large or wet logs or loading onto too few hot coals. Use dry kindling to start fire quickly. DO NOT USE WET FUEL.
    • Insufficient draft. Review chimney construction and investigate air pressure levels in the home.
    • Warm, humid conditions outside or an inversion layer. Wait until the flue pipe heats-up.