Help Centre

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  1. How do I clean the outside of the Pyroclassic and the flue pipes? 21/04/2018

    The powder coated panels on the Pyroclassic IV can be wiped clean with some light detergent and warm water You can choose to do this with the panels on the fire or remove them for a more thorough cleaning. Be careful when you remove the front panel to not tear the insulating gasket which is on the inside of the panel: you will need to pull the centre of the panel forward slightly to allow it to clear the space behind it when you slide it up.

    The stainless steel flue pipe can be cleaned using a soft cloth with a small amount of methylated spirits soaked into it. Try to avoid touching the flue pipe with your bare hands as this leaves oils from the skin on the pipe and becomes very hard to remove once the pipes have been heat cycled.

     

  2. What does it mean by the Pyroclassic being 'Self Regulating'? 21/04/2018

    The vigorous fire near the loading door automatically slows down as the burning front advances through the firebox towards the back. Each cycle ends with ash and hot ember at the far end of the firebox. Only use the Turboslide when lighting, adding fresh fuel or if you quickly want a very vigorous fire. The Pyroclassic® IV not only provides heat soon after start up but it also stores a lot of the heat from burning your wood, you will get most of this heat back over several hours. Frequent reloading may result in high room temperatures but you will soon know how much and how often to add fuel, the best heater output control is how much and how often you do this. The Pyroclassic® IV is designed to save on firewood and to keep emission levels to the minimum by storing the surplus heat which normally goes up the chimney - this heat is still being released into the room even when the fire is low at the end of each burn cycle.

  3. Do you recommend using Smartburn in the Pyroclassic? 21/04/2018

    We have not carried out any testing with the SmartBurn in the Pyroclassic so we have no official data to go from and based on the limited knowledge we have of it there is little to suggest that it would make any significant difference to the burn environment inside a Pyroclassic. 

    A Pyroclassic in good working condition should not need a SmartBurn or similar in it to achieve a good, clean, effective and efficient burn.

  4. How does burning work with the Pyroclassic IV? 21/04/2018

    Solid wood must change to gas and vapour before any burning can take place. This change occurs by heating wood to high temperatures to make the best gas fuel, low temperatures will make smoke and tars that are simply unburnt fuel. The Pyroclassic® IV is a North/South burning fire so the fire is started in the front of the fire chamber and continues along the length of the wood to the rear. To make the best use of your firewood please ensure logs are placed lengthways into the fire chamber – NOT sideways. Your objective is to achieve a high temperature in the fire chamber quickly, which is easy using the Turboslide and dry wood. You will never get the fire to burn correctly if you try starting fires with green or wet wood. The only fuel authorised for use with this appliance within Urban Clean Air Sheds and Smoke Control Zones is well seasoned wood with a moisture content of 25% or less on wet weight basis, 12-18% is ideal.

     

    How a Pyroclassic works diagram

  5. How do I fix down draft? 21/04/2018

    Download our down draft troubleshooting tips HERE.

  6. How do I refuel the fire? 21/04/2018

    Use the rake to evenly distribute the hot ember and ash along the base of the fire box, ensuring there is sufficient hot ember at the front to provide adequate ignition to the fresh fuel load. Load the fresh fuel so the logs are loaded lengthways and one end of each log is in contact with the back wall of the firebox. If you keep your fire burning under the metal air tubes which run along the top of the cylinder, this will ensure the maximum amount of heat is captured within the ceramic cylinder. As hot gases have the most distance to travel before entering the flue, this allows the whole fire to retain as much heat as possible. When raking, avoid plugging the Turboslide inlet with char or ash (this is the hole covered externally by the Turboslide below the door). Using other tools may cause damage to the ceramic cylinder, always take care not to impact the ceramic surface.

  7. Why is smoke coming from my Pyroclassic fire into my room? 21/04/2018

    There are a few reasons why this could be happening:

    • Negative pressure in the room - this can be caused by a household electric exhaust fan or severe pressure difference in a windstorm. Open a window to equalise the pressure.
    • Severe down draft due to surrounding structures, hills, trees or roof layout.
    • Most commonly, this is an indication your flue is blocked. Clear the obstruction and investigate the cause. Check the moisture of your wood and make sure you are burning good, dry wood. The flue pipe can block very quickly if you are burning wet or gummy wood. Make sure you are using a reliable chimney sweep as the Pyroclassic is different from other wood fires. 

     Down draft causes

    Download down draft troubleshooting info HERE.

  8. When and how should I clean the flue? 21/04/2018

    Pyroclassic fires are renowned for burning very cleanly when dry fuel is used but you should still always clean your flue once a year. This is often a requirement for many insurance companies.

    Keeping your 100mm flue pipes clean will help eliminate the risk of a flue fire. Your flue is also a great indication of how your wood fuel is performing. If the pipes are clean then the wood is good, if the pipes are filling up with carbon, creosote and tar deposits then you may need to revisit the operating instructions and refresh yourself with how to create a cleaner burning fire.

    The easiest way to clean the flue is by placing a deep baking tray or similar under the base of the flue and sweep the flue down into this, this stops all the debris from falling into the top chamber and requiring vacuuming out.

    The build-up around the wetback is best removed by hand. The wetback can be knocked out of alignment if it is moved when the creosote is being cleaned off so be careful as this can cause the constant rise to be knocked out of alignment and can result in water hammer developing in the system.

  9. Why are there cracks and deterioration in my Pyroclassic cylinder? 21/04/2018

    This is a natural way to relieve built-up stress in refractories. It has no effect on operation, performance or useful life of the unit. The firebox is an arch structure, the most stable and permanent construction known. These cracks will develop over time and is nothing to worry about. 

    Due to it being cast as a one piece cylinder it goes through some expansion and contraction every time it is heat cycled. This is just the cylinder relieving its inert tension and results in a variety of different levels of cracking. 

    These cracks and blisters can slowly grow over time due to erosion through use. If you do not like the appearance of the cylinder when cracks appear, you can purchase veneering cement which can be mixed to a toothpaste like consistency and inserted into the cracked areas.

    The story goes that the two original designers each had a Pyro and one touched up his cylinder every year and the other never touched his...25 years later both fires were still working albeit one was looked in better looking condition internally than the other!

     25 year-old Pyroclassic II Cylinder 

    IMG 0241

     

  10. What do I do with my warranty forms? 21/04/2018

    Please make sure that both copies of your warranty paperwork have been fully filled out with all your details, the details
    of who you purchased the fire from, and your installer’s details for both the fire and the wetback if applicable.

     

    WARRANTY

    The ceramic firebox in the Pyroclassic IV is warranted for 15 years against defective material or workmanship, providing that the fire is used in accordance to the manufacturer's operating instructions. Cracks and blisters to the cylinder are not considered a failure of the ceramic firebox. All other parts are warranted for 12 months from purchase. This warranty does not cover damage or failure caused by tampering, carelessness, abuse or misuse, cosmetic damage or general wear and tear, this includes damaged door knob and broken door glass All cases will be considered at the manufacturers discretion.

    Note: the warranty only applies to the original owner registered on the warranty card and cannot be transferred without express permission by the manufacturer.